This is a 2017 take on a classic project: The LackRack
For those unfamiliar, the legs on IKEA's LACK side tables are spaced almost perfectly for rackmount equipment. With a price tag of around US$9.99 each, many enterprising hackers have turned to using LACK tables in place of traditional server racks, which can easily fetch over US$100 and are often too unwieldy for home use.
The so-called "LackRack" has existed in many forms over the years. Builds published online include everything from bolting multiple LACK tables together and adding rails to welding steel supports and adding side panels. LackRack 20XX is a personal take on the project, with a number of added features designed to enhance stability and flexibility.
Note that LackRack 20XX was designed for lightweight equipment and use in a home office. Those using heavier devices should plan their build accordingly.
- 3x IKEA LackRacks
- 1x Pair of 16U Rack Rails
- 4x Locking Caster Wheels
- 4x 1.5" x 1 3/8" Mending Braces
- 4x 1-1/2" x 5/8" L-Braces
- Rack Rail Screws and Washers
- 20x 14x1" Wood Screws*
The links above are the materials I purchased, chosen out of convenience and budget. It is definitely possible to substitute cheaper alternatives in some places (ex. making your own rails), or forgo some features entirely.
* Admittedly, I didn't note the screw sizes during the build. The non-rackmount mounting holes on the rails have a 1/4" diameter and the screws I used were 1" long, which suggests a 14x1" wood screw. The legs have a width of 2", so the wood screws should be under that length.
| Begin by assembling two of the tables. This is accomplished by twisting the screws partway into each leg, then twisting the legs into the bases. Once fully tightened, half the screw should be in the leg and the other half should be in the table. I couldn't get the screws all of the way into any of the legs by themselves, but they tightened up after attaching them to the base. | |
| I wanted the ability to disassemble and reassemble the rack, and I found that each leg fit differently in each base/hole. During assembly, I numbered the bottom of each leg and the hole the leg connected to on the base. As I attached each leg, I lined it up squarely with the corner it was on and marked the corner edge with an 'S' for 'start.' After twisting it and tightening to the base, I marked the new (or sometimes same) corner edge with 'E' for 'end.' Along with reassembly, this also helps with lining up holes for the rack rails. |
| Stack the two tables on top of each other as shown here. The legs tend to differ in length, and you'll want to rotate one table until you have a minimal amount of wobble between them. If you're adding rails, make sure to select the two sturdiest legs to attach them to, with little to no gaps where the leg ends meet. | ||
| Remove the two pairs of legs you'll be attaching the rails to, paying attention to the numbering and their marked edges. Lay the flat ends against each other, being sure to line up the edges marked 'E' in the previous step. This is done to ensure that the outside edges from when we assembled the tables will still be the outside edges when we reattach the legs, and to make sure we drill our rail mounting holes into the correct sides of the legs. | ||
| I used blue painter's tape to hold the legs together, but any clamp/tape will work. Once you have the legs together, lay your rails down the edge you'll be attaching them to. I attached mine such that the rackmount holes were inside the rack (invisible from the front), but it was a strictly aesthetic decision. Regardless of whether your rackmount holes are rear- or front-facing, make sure that the non-rackmount holes on the rails are on the inside of the legs, and that your rail is flush with the bottom of the leg that will be attached to the bottom base. When you're comfortable with the placement, drill a small hole towards the bottom of the leg, using the rail's holes as a guide. Do the same at the topmost hole, then put a screw through each to attach the rail to the leg. Using a larger bit, drill holes and add wood screws to the non-rackmount side using this same process, being careful not to hit the rackmount screws when drilling and screwing them in. The combination of these will hold the leg in place while we measure and pre-drill the other rackmount holes. | ||
Note that the legs themselves are hollow except at the top, near where they connect to the table base. Take your time, and don't be caught off guard if you're drilling and the wood feels like it abruptly gives way.
If your rackmount screws aren't self-tapping, use a small bit to drill holes along the rackmount sides of the legs. It seems tedious, but makes mounting gear to the rack much easier once it's reassembled. I also added extra wood screws on the non-rackmount side, near where the legs meet (as well as at the bottom and top of the rails). These help prevent the legs from buckling at the joint when the rack is under load.
| After drilling all the rackmount holes, remove all the screws and the rails from the legs. Then, reassemble the tables, utilizing the numbering and marked edges we applied in Step 1. Once your tables are back together, stack them and reattach your rails to the legs using only the larger wood screws on the non-rackmount sides. The rack should now be fairly stable, but feel free to mount some gear to check. | |
| To prevent the rear legs from sliding around, attach the mending braces so that they hold the each pair of rear legs together. The braces I purchased came in a four pack, so I used two on each pair of rear legs. Combined with the rails on the front legs, they greatly stabilized the rack. |
| Remove any mounted gear, and rotate the rack so that it's resting on it's side. On the bottom, attach the caster wheels such that their bases are flush with the edges of the table. The table bases are hollow except for a wood frame that runs along the edges. Try to screw the three outermost screws on each caster into this frame, and don't be surprised if the innermost screw feels like it abruplty goes through the hollow base (like when drilling into the hollow table legs). | |
| After attaching the caster wheels, flip the rack rightside up. If you're not adding a third table, the rack is ready to start mounting gear into. |
| Assemble the third table the same way we did in Step 1, again applying our number/edge marking scheme. Once complete, set it on top of the rack, rotating to find the orientation with the least gaps/wobble. When you've found one that's stable, use the L-braces to the screw the top table into place. I found it helped to push the top table's legs outward while doing this, to make them more flush with the base they were being attached to. |