arduino setup for 3d printed portal gun
List of parts:
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Arduino Nano (or clone) (https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Arduino-ATmega328P-Without-Compatible/dp/B0713XK923/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=arduino+nano&qid=1602026870&sr=8-4) i used those cheaper arduino clones i linked, should be interchangeable with any arduino nano.
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Adafruit sound FX board (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010M8UOR8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) i used the 2mb version, and with the sounds i provided it came in just under 2mb, there is a 16mb version if you want to use your own sound effects, or have them higher quality.
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Neopixel Jewel x2 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0105VMT4S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) again, i got knock offs, but any neopixel compatible clone should do. I hvae had good luck so far with DIYMall brand from amazon.
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Neopixel Ring 16 led version (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08F9HSNSD/?coliid=IWRMIFVUICFMT&colid=3CGBY3S7A1KD5&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) same as above
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Individual Neopixel (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D1FFVOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) i bought a pack of 100 as they are cheap, if you do other projects they can come in handy, but this only needs one.
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2 SPST Switches (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cw-industries/GRS-4011-0118/4425759) the modified STL files i provided have cutouts for switches of these dimensions specifically.
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2 momentary buttons (i did one red and one black) (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/e-switch/PS1023ARED/81776) (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/e-switch/PS1023ABLK/82862) same as above
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Blue arcade button (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/3432/7349494) same as above
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Red arcade button (https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/3430/7349492) same as above
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2 inch speakers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHYIU26/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) same as the switches, i designed the holes around these specific speakers.
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5 volt amplifier (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G4DLM9D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) a little less picky as the rest of the parts, this is designed around a usb battery bank, so any 5v amplifier should work. the one i used was about the cheapest available. also the hole in the hatch is designed around this one mounting to give you access to the volume knob.
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Micro usb board (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B5ZDLJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) optional, as you could hardwire power directly too the system. (more on that below)
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330 ohm resistors x4 might depend on the LEDs you get, but they should all be relatively the same. these just limit the current to keep the LEDs from burning out
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3 Red 5mm LEDs, and another of any color (i used green) for the main power light. these are for the base of the "fingers". in the game there were 3 red lights at the base as well and another 3 at the first joint. i opted for just the 3 for simplicity.
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Misc wires (i used scrap ethernet cable and some dupont jumpers i got on amazon) this is not exactly a power hog, so any wires should do fine.
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USB battery bank (maybe not the smallest cheapest thing you can find, but it doesnt need to be huge) with the exact parts listed above, minus the neopixel ring (i was originally going to just use 2 jewels), and only a single 8 ohm speaker hooked to the amp, with the amp at full volume i registered a little over an amp of current. i plan on running the 2 4-ohm speakers on each channel which will increase the current draw (i plan on testing it once i get it put together completely.) i have a battery which can supply 2 amps per usb, and a total of 3.2. if i notice power issues, i may hook the amp power to its own usb cord. i will try to remember to update this once i am done.
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20mm or .8 inch acrylic rod. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0832JFR7F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) i used a "bubble rod" so the lights were a little more visable in it. 20mm or .8 inch should work, these seem to come and go. every time i come back to order one again its unavailable and i have to find another seller. check amazon or ebay.
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Clear pipe 2.5 inch (https://www.homedepot.com/p/POWERTEC-2-1-2-in-x-36-in-Long-Clear-Pipe-70176/207185612) i had a hard time finding the metric size the original designer had used as i am in the states, he had used 60mm which is about 2.3 inch. i made the hole big enough to fit the 2.5 inch pipe i found from home depot (and it was a tight fit.)
Power:
notice i ran power directly to the 5v pin of the arduino. i believe this bypasses the voltage regulator and powers it directly. you could power the arduino off the VIN pin with a higher voltage battery and run the lights, fx board, and amp off this pin, but it would be pushing the arduino to the limit. i chose to just power everything separately from the usb battery bank so i don't fry the arduino. be careful though, as if you plug in your usb cable with this hooked up, it will attempt to output 5v on this pin and power everything else. the amplifier i linked can be turned off with the volume knob, so you should be safe that way
Button LEDs:
The LEDs in the blue and red arcade buttons could be powered off either A1 or A2. with the dupont connectors i used, it was more convenient to have 2 separate pins, but you don't have to use both of them if you dont want to. I do however have the 3 red LEDs a little dimmer, so A0 is different than A1 and A2.
The Song:
The song button is programmed to play "Still Alive". i have not included this in the files for copyright purposes. you will have to find a copy yourself. I formatted it to OGG , mono and the lowest quality to get it down to 1.08MB. Name it T06.ogg there is a little room on the 2MB board for it to be a little bigger than that. As stated above, you can always get the 16MB FX board for just a couple bucks more. i believe there are 4 models, 2MB and 16MB, both with and without a 3.5mm jack. any of them should work, but i did not use the headphone jack.
2 Power switches:
the reason there are 2 power switches, is one is a true power switch that kills power to the whole circuit (so your battery doesn't drain when you aren't using it). The other switch is a simulated power switch. it powers the gun up and down (with power up and down sound effects). if you have the simulated power switch on when you turn the main power switch on, sometimes it just jumps straight into the idle hum, sometimes a couple of the lights turn green. either way the gun works as expected once you push a button.
If you have any questions, comment on thingiverse, i might not see it immediately, but i will try my best to respond.